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Does remote wire that hooks up between positive and negative have to be wired into head unit or can it be another hot wire coming from battery and having a toggle switch in between battery and subwoofer. Thanks in advance for your response.
The remote wire needs to be connected to the remote trigger of the head unit or it can be also wired directly from the battery and have a toggle switch to turn the unit on and off
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Instructions don't mention what size (amperage rating) inline fuse to add between the battery and the and the subwoofer, can you specify? I am using this subwoofer on my golf cart which is 48 volts. I assume i need to step down the voltage as I do not see a voltage range indicated in the specs of the subwoofer in the manual. Is a step down DC/DC converter needed to get from 48 to 12 V? Would a 12V 300 Watt output be sufficient given the RMS rating for the Amp and woofer in the manual? Thanks!
For the AQTB8, yes—you’re right to be cautious.
This unit is designed to run on 12V DC only, so on a 48V golf cart you must use a DC-DC step-down converter (48V → 12V). Do not connect it directly to 48V.
A 12V 300W converter is generally sufficient, since the system’s peak draw is much lower than 300W in normal use. Just make sure the converter is a quality unit that can handle continuous load (not just peak).
For the inline fuse, a safe range is 20A–25A on the 12V side, placed as close as possible to the converter output/battery feed. That protects both the amp and wiring without nuisance blowing during bass peaks.
So in simple setup: 48V battery → DC/DC converter → 20–25A fused 12V line → subwoofer amp.
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So I have this installed in my utv under the dash and it fell, the red protection light is on and I have pulled the fuses and checked the wiring and I can’t get it to go off, is the amp done for?
It may have shorted out some internal part in the unit
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